Winter Skin Fixes

It's the most wonderful time of the year....

Yeah, tell that to my skin, jerk. Granted, I prefer winter. Heat, sunlight, and dehydration are all major migraine triggers for me, so I'm on lock down all summer. I literally get reverse Seasonal Affective Disorder since I'm not really allowed outside. Also, if it's 20 degrees, I can layer. If it's 90 degrees, I can be buck naked and still uncomfortable.

But my skin hates winter. My skin is über dry at the best of times, and when the temperature drops it gets downright reptilian. Even if your skin doesn't get as dry as mine, I'm sure it dries out a bit in winter. So read on.....

Choosing Soap

Bar soap is bad. If you have dry skin, chuck your bar soap immediately. See those cracks in your bar of soap? Yeah, that's going to happen to your skin. Liquid soap is always preferable for dry skin.

You want Sodium Laureth Sulfate. You must read your labels. As a sick person, I'm sure you already do this on your food, but you have to do it on your health and beauty aids as well. Most body washes contain Sodium Laurel Sulfate. It's cheaper and foamier and harsher than Laureth Sulfate. Those two little letters make a big difference. Laureth is a weaker detergent, and therefore less drying. If you're not scent triggered, I highly recommend Philosophy Body Wash. I have a dozen. But soap is soap. As long as its Laureth Sulfate, use whatever.

Be Gross, Don't Wash

Honestly, I really don't shower all that often. It takes a lot of spoons I don't have. I work at home, seldom leave the house, and my cats don't seem to mind.
But showering every day is actually pretty bad for dry skin in the winter. Even the most gentle soaps dry skin out, because while your removing dirt you're also removing the skins natural oils. So, limit your showers. If you still want or need to shower every day, lather up strategically. Seriously, how dirty do your elbows get?

Layer up

Once out of the shower, pile it on. Not clothes, but moisturizer. I put on two layers on my body, and at least three on my face. For my body, I use my practical good non scented moisturizer, then I add another layer of something that smells pretty (usually like baked goods!). If your only going to use a fragrance free, still use two layers. Especially if you aren't showering every day. It will keep your skin from drying out between moisturizing. Always, always, always put moisturizer on wet skin. It will lock in the water that's already on there. Don't really dry off after your shower, do a quick pat with a towel then start piling it on.

Here are some of my favorite dry skin products. I've spent 20 years testing moisturizers, so you can be sure these are the best of the best!

Trader Joe's Moisturizing Cream
If you live anywhere near a Trader Joe's, this is worth the drive. It's $3.49 a bottle, and easily the second best moisturizer ever.  (The best being the wildly expensive Biotone which I'll get to in a second). It's totally fragrance free, has no mineral oil, and is just a fantastic no frills body lotion.  Sadly, it cannot be purchased online, so the link above is to the Makeup Alley review page.  You'll see I'm not the only person crazy for this lotion!

Biotone Massage Cream
This is not made for a moisturizer, but works amazingly as one. It has to be ordered online, and it's pricey! But a little goes a long way, so it's worth the money. Make sure you read the descriptions, as some products will have fragrance.  If I didn't have my Trader Joe's, I'd still be using their Pure Touch Organics, which was my favorite. (When you go to the website, be sure to check out their massage oils, which also make great moisturizers, and their face muds are fantastic as well.)

Oil Cleansers
This I only recommend for those with extremely dry skin like mine, and frankly I'm experimenting with this concept right now. Two weeks in, and I'm very pleased so far.
I've use oil cleansers for years as makeup removers. But when I saw my skin starting to flake and crack as early as November, I thought maybe it was time to try them as a daily cleanser. It sounds counter intuitive to clean your face with oil, but it works. All oil cleansers contain a hefty dose of mineral oil, which is too large to penetrate your skin, so your face isn't going to become oily from using an oil cleanser. You apply the oil to dry skin, where it bonds with dirt. Then you add water, which removes the oil/dirt, but keeps all the good oils on your face. The first one to be sold commercially, my favorite Shu Uemura, was made to remove Elizabeth Taylor's makeup on the set of Cleopatra. That's should give you an idea of what this is capable of cleaning!
Sadly, the Shu Uemura is extremely expensive. Less expensive options are available from Josie Maran, DHC, and now even Sephora. I just got the Sephora oil cleanser and I am pretty impressed. It's a bit thinner than the Shu, so I mix in a tiny squirt of the Shu to improve the texture.

Hope In A Jar

Love. This. Stuff. My sister says giving someone Hope in a Jar is tantamount to giving them a vial of crack or a bag of heroin. You've given them a lifelong addiction! I've only met one person who actually didn't like Hope. There are two really cool things about Hope In A Jar. One, it comes in formulas for dry, normal and oily skin. Two, you can get a trial size of the original Hope for about $15, so you don't have to commit to a $38 jar of moisturizer right off the bat.
It moisturizes, it brightens, it improves skin's texture. And, totally fragrance free. Be warned, since there is no perfume it does not smell good. But the smell fades in about 15 seconds, and you get used to it.

Josie Maran Argan Balm
I just discovered this and I am picking out china with this product. I got a tiny tin in the Josie Maran Moroccan Bazaar sampler, which of you've never tried Argan oil I recommend picking up. It's a moisturizing balm. It must be meant for your body, as the full size comes in a very large tin, but I bought it for my face. It's creates a thin film to lock in gobs of moisturizer I just put on, and leaves my skin unbelievably soft. I reapply a couple times a day, whenever I'm feeling dry. You can even use this under liquid makeup, provided you use a very thin layer.

Smiths Rosebud Salve
I saved the best for last. This is a cult classic. I have been buying this since I had to take the train to Bigelow Apothecary in downtown Manhattan. It was worth the trip. Lucky you, it's now available for $6-7 in Sephora and in three flavors (original, minted and strawberry). It's meant for your lips, but I use this everywhere in the winter. My lips, my nose when it gets chapped, my cuticles, my elbows. I used it on my cracking, flaking forehead all last winter too. I have them stashed all over the place and keep one on me at all times. This will heal the most disastrously chapped skin in 24-48 hours. If you get nothing else I recommend here, get this one!

Get one, or get all, these will at least keep your skin nice during the cold months ahead.  Stay warm!

Let's Drop Acid

Acid peels that is.

I don't take great care of my skin. I don't wash my face every day. I sometimes don't eat anything but toast for a week. And I don't know about you, but being a walking chemistry experiment really messes with my skin sometimes.

So I have had to find products that I can use one day a week to make it look like I did what I was supposed to for the other six.

Enter peels. There are two types of exfoliation. Physical, like a scrub, and chemical, like a peel. My skin (like the rest of my stupid body) is ultra sensitive and does not like physical exfoliants. Also, when I have allodynia (fancy medical term for "my skin hurts") the last thing I want is to be rubbing little grains into my face. Ow.

I'm going to apologize now for the fact this post has a lot of chemistry terms in it. I've spent many years learning all of this, because when you have sensitive skin you have to know what that eighteen syllable word on the ingredients list means, and whether or not your allergic to it. I'll try to keep this from getting too boring.

Peels use an acid to clear away the dead skin off your face, which clears pores, stimulates collagen growth, and reveals the brighter skin underneath. There are three kinds of acids used in most peels available: Glycolic, lactic, and fruit acids. (Fruit acids are an alpha-hydroxy acid like glycolic acid, but a "papaya mask" is going to be less potent than a "papaya gylcolic peel". It's less chemistry than labeling.)  It is also important to keep the concentration of the peel in mind.  A 30% lactic acid peel is obviously stronger than a 10% glycolic acid peel.

Important: When it comes to exfoliation, less is more.  It's like starting a new medication:  start low and go slow.  See what your skin can tolerate.  Don't jump into doing a glycolic peel three times a week, and then send me hate mail about how bad your skin looks.  Do it once.  Wait a week.  See what happens.  And save your receipts.  Most stores are good about returns if something really destroys your skin, even if you have used a little bit.

Glycolic Acid:
This is your strongest one. It gives you the best, fastest results. It also has the most potential to cause irritation and dryness. Because it is the most potent, it is also the most expensive.

My Recommendation: Ole Henrikson Lemon Strip Flash Peel $48

This is one of my favorite brands for skincare.  Granted, I have not yet tried this product myself yet.  My skin is way too sensitive for glycolic acid, but I have many of their other products and they are all very high quality and well worth the money.  

Honorable Mention:  Brazilian Peel $118

This gets a mention because the set, which is for a full thirty days, is supposed to be the equivalent of a single session 30% glycolic acid peel performed by a dermatologist.  It has gotten all kinds of awards and accolades since it came out a few years ago, and is considered to be the gold standard of at home peels.  Would I spend that kind of money? No way.

Lactic Acid
This acid is less potent than glycolic, but is still excellent for peels.  It is a milk acid as opposed to a fruit acid, like glycolic. You can find it on it's own, but it is also often used in combination with glycolic or salicylic acids.  Since it is less potent, it is less likely to irritate and better for sensitive and dry skin types.

My Recommendation:  Philosophy Microdelivery Purifying Peel $40

This product is MAGIC.  This is what actually inspired me to write this post.  I bought this on impulse out of desperation because my skin looked so dull and felt like paper.  There are many fantastic things about this product, but hands down the best is the application time is only 1-3 minutes.  I put it on after the shower, put on moisturizer, then rinse it off.  I was able to fit it right into my existing routine, so it's not an extra thing I need to try to remember to do.  I've been using it about two months and have seen a huge improvement in my skin's texture, clarity and radiance.

Honorable Mention:  Philosophy The Microdelivery $40 or $68

This gets a nod because it's the original and because it is a great product.  It combines a dermabrasion based Vitamin C scrub with a lactic acid peel.  It's more intense than just the peel, but might be good for those who like a scrub too, or need a little more exfoliation.  Plus it comes in 1oz and 2oz sizes, so you can choose which is right for you.

Fruit Acids 
Again, this isn't a chemical difference, just labeling.  These peels and masks are going to be your least potent, but also the least irritating.  These are a great starting place for sensitive skin or people who are new to chemical exfoliation and aren't sure how their skin will react.  Also, since these are the least potent, I can finally give you products at a decent price point, and even make at home options.

My recommendation:  100% Pure Pineapple Enzyme Facial Peel $17

I haven't tried this either, but I am very impressed by the ingredients list.   You know what's in this?  Clay.  Pineapples.  Papaya.  Many times in skincare, less is more.  I haven't tried this yet, but I'm definitely going to be ordering some for myself!

Honorable Mention

Ole Henrikson Blue/Blackberry Enzyme Mask $32

This one I already have and I love this mask.  It leaves your skin so soft and plump, but it's not as strong as a peel.  It only takes about a tablespoon to cover you're whole face, so the jar will last you a while. 

At Home Options
If you aren't ready to invest, there are at home options as well.  Apple cider vinegar is an alpha hydroxy acid.  Lactic acid is derived from milk, so plain yogurt is a lactic acid mask.  All fruits are an instant glycolic acid facial.  Add a tablespoon of honey into the mix for its hydrating and healing properties.  I'm personally far too lazy for that myself.  If I'm going to spend ten minutes in the kitchen, it's probably going to be to make myself some actual food for once.

So now you have the low down on peels and chemical exfoliation. Here are some important things to keep in mind:

• Before: Wash your face. I hope that's obvious. Use a gentle cleanser. Stay away from anti-aging and anti-acne cleansers right before a peel. These will likely have salicylic acid or other types of chemical exfoliants in them. Too much of a good thing is very bad.
• During: If it burns, wash it off. A little stinging is normal. I mean, you are putting acid on your face. But a little stinging for 10-15 seconds should be it. If the stinging lasts longer or is truly a burning sensation, wash it off now! That means the peel is too strong for your skin.
• After: Moisturize! Do not do a peel then leave your face bare. That is just asking for trouble. I'd recommend a good thick one. Even if you normally use an oil-free moisturizer, I'd get something a little more gooey for this. Neutrogena and Olay make great night creams. Or you can get a trial size Philosophy Hope in a Jar for around $15. You just want a good protective layer on your skin after a peel.
• And, even more important, sunscreen! You should be wearing it every day anyway. (Don't make me show you Tan Mom again!). Peels will make you more sensitive to sun damage and sun burn so it is very important to be diligent about daily sunscreen use if you use peels regularly.

I'm going to make it easy for you again.  If you have to buy one, I'm going to say Philosophy Microdelivery Purifying Peel.

• First, like all Philosophy skincare, it is fragrance free.  It has a slight citrus scent because it has citric acid, but it has zero perfume.  I would be surprised if the scent of the ingredients, which fades very quickly, would be enough to trigger a migraine.
• Second, it is highly unlikely it will irritate your skin.  How am I so confident?  It doesn't irritate my skin, and everything irritates my skin.  If I'm not allergic to stuff, almost no one is.  
• Third, you have the 1-3 minute application time.  Put it on in the shower, after the shower, while you are brushing your teeth.  The short amount of time needed makes it so easy to fit in somewhere.  (Also, it would be very hard for 3 minutes of exposure to a non-perfume smell to trigger a migraine I think)  
• Fourth, it's worth the money.  I bought mine in mid-July and I have gone through about 3/4 of it so far.  So in a year, you might buy three of these.  If you figure one or two times a week into $120 for the whole year, you're looking at less then $2 per use.  Trust me, this stuff is worth your $2 per use.

But it doesn't matter if you spend $118 on the Brazilian Peel, or put some yogurt on your face twice a week.  Anything you do to exfoliate is going to improve your skin and help to make up for any neglect.

I've Got 99 Problems, But Skin Cancer Ain't One

If you're like me, you're sick.  Probably with a few things.  So why add another illness to the pile that, unlike most of this mess, is actually preventable?  Wear sunscreen every day.

If you take nothing else from me ever again, take that. I'll say it again. Wear sunscreen every day. If not for preventing skin cancer, do it for vanity. Eighty five percent of aging is caused by UV damage. And all the beauty advice in the world isn't going to help you if you look like Tan Mom.

But where to begin?  You go to the drugstore and there are dozens of brands and formulas. SPF, broad spectrum, what does it all mean?  That's where I come in.

SPF:  Sun Protection Factor.  The only thing you need to know about this is you need at least 15, preferably 30, and anything above 50 is really only necessary for the Irish and other extra pasty people (like myself).

Broad Spectrum:  This means it blocks UVA and UVB rays.  This is important because both cause skin cancer and skin aging.  Almost all sun screen is broad spectrum now, but check your labels to be sure.

Ingredients:  Some sunscreens stand up to light better than others, so make sure to look for ones with avobenzone, Helioplex or Mexoryl SX.  If you have allergies or sensitivities to chemical sunscreens, you can always go with physical sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. 

For more information on the technicalities of sunscreen, check out this article from the Mayo Clinic.

I've done all the hard work for you though and I am going to make this really easy. Buy Neutrogena.  It is that simple.  For your face, I like either the Healthy Defense Moisturizer or Ultra Sheer Liquid Sun Block . Both go on flawlessly under makeup.  For your body, any one they make will do.  Right now I'm using Wet Skin Sun Screen, because it goes on clear so it doesn't smudge my clothes.  Be warned, this is NOT for migraineurs who have problems with scent triggers, because the smell is obnoxious.

If you want a physical sunscreen, you can check out Neutrogena's Baby Sun Screen line.  Try this line if you have sensitive skin, or if regular sunscreens tend to burn you around the eyes.

Sadly, the Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Liquid makes me break out, so I have to use a pricier option for my face.  La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sun Screen Fluid is about three times as expensive as the Neutrogena, but it is also, I think, a better face sunscreen.  It is up to you whether it is worth the extra cost.  Personally, I think the La Roche-Posay is better, but maybe not $18 better.  If your skin doesn't have a problem with the Neutrogena, I'd probably stick with that one.

And the last thing is, make sure you are putting on enough.  A teaspoon for your face and a shot glass for your body (the latter is presuming a swimsuit).  Make sure you reapply if you are out for more than a few hours.

And if you are out in the sun for more than a few hours without getting horribly sick, what's your secret?